EV Components and What They Do
These are typical major components for a microcar or scooter conversion, what they are for, and some variations you might consider:
Component | Purpose | Comments |
---|---|---|
Battery Cell (one of many pictured) | Connected in series and parallel to provide power for the motor. Depending on your goals you may need hundreds of cells. Cells connected are a “battery pack”. | You can make your own battery or purchase a pre-built pack that will save time (and maybe even be cheaper). For a scooter you would use smaller Li-ion cells which pack more power in a smaller footprint. You can choose new cells, or used cells to save money. Cells have performance characteristics that may be important to meet your goals |
Battery Charger | Charges the cells via the BMS. To save space you should consider an external charger | Some chargers can charge faster (at a higher amperage) than others, and if you want to use the public charging network you may need a different type of connector (J1772 in the US) |
Battery Management System | Manages the charge of the cell to preserve the life of the cells | BMS’s are specific to the number of cells and battery chemistry. Pre-built packs have the BMS already incorporated. |
Controller | Determines how the EV motor reacts within the limits of the parameters you set in the controller’s software | There are many kinds and sizes. Stick with well-known brands for support, equipped with Bluetooth for connectivity. |
Hub Motor | The actual moving part that propels the scooter | I suggest a hub motor because of space constraints (there are also geared mid-drive motors, but they require more room). You must choose the proper size for your build. |
Throttle | You know exactly what this is! In the EV world they are called Throttle Position Sensors (“TPS Switches”), potentiometers or “pot-boxes” | There’s a variety of throttles available in different formats depending on your design goals |
DC to DC converter | Allows you run 12v electrics such as lights and horn from the battery pack | I suggest an “isolated” converter as they are safer (but more expensive) than non-isolated converters, and minimize changes to existing wiring. |